Williamsburg VA.

When choosing a travel destination that includes history your choices are numerous to say the least, one could choose various locals such as Washington D.C., but Washington tends to document history and primarily acts as the principle library and museum for the United States. Philadelphia would be another excellent choice allowing one to experience history at the dawn of our extraordinary country, although you are limited to roughly a 25 year period in history; while much can be said for either location my money rests on historic Williamsburg VA.

Williamsburg VA located mere hours from many east coast cities; this history packed region of the US spans three hundred years of founding history from the first settlement in Jamestown to the surrender of British forces in Yorktown VA, while offering up generous dose of civil war history throughout the region…which occurred some 300 hundred years after Jamestown.

Arriving in VA via the West Virginia Turnpike is pretty quick and painless; the trip from Charleston to the VA /WV border is approximately 2 hours with an additional four hours to Williamsburg. Along the way you travel through Covington and Clifton Mills VA a somewhat smelly region so keep the windows closed until you are over the mountain and several miles from the source of irritation. The next community you happen upon will be the city of Lexington which features only the second horse park in the US, the first horse park lies in Lexington KY… go figure.

If time allows make an effort to visit the home of Thomas Jeffersons, Monticello and before getting back on the interstate swing into Charlottesville VA, check out the campus of the University of VA Thomas Jefferson designed this campus as he did his own home in the Palladio architectural style. While walking the campus stroll on over to the south side dormitory row which offers the campus home of Edgar Allen Poe, aside from the Poe factor the small dorm room also affords the visitor a unique look into 18th century campus life.

Safely back on the interstate it would be very easy to stop off in Richmond and explore the vast array of historic civil war battle locations and the White House of the Confederacy, but this would certainly eat into the allotted time in Williamsburg. My suggestion would be to plan a separate or extended stay to the region and allow Williamsburg to be the base camp while exploring the area.

I would also suggest at this to point to get off the interstate and rather then fighting the bumper to bumper traffic of people on their way to Virginia Beach seek out a little unknown route…Rt.5. Popular with travelers in the 17th and 18th century this route with its canopy of shades tree is often seen after you arrive in Williamsburg as you begin venturing outside the city to explore plantations in the area such as the Shirley Plantation. This tunnel like drive and 55 mile per hour speed limit allowed Rachel and I to slow down and immerse ourselves in history as we traveled along the main route from Richmond to Williamsburg, the very same corridor used by our forefathers and scene to countless skirmishes by civil war troops. In fact, this two lane corridor came to an abrupt end right into the heart of historic Williamsburg while permitting us to navigate around the interstate traffic and arrive prior to our scheduled 3:00pm hotel check-in time.

Upon arrival in Williamsburg via Rt.5 you soon discover two things, first you did not need to search out the correct exit off the interstate and secondly whatever creature comforts you desire Williamsburg has it from four star retreats to simple tent camp sites located along the James River each in its own way offering just what the doctor ordered …relaxation.

Travel to the region is pretty simple one can choose either car or plane, however another alternative to consider is by train with its many stops in small communities allowing an easy connection for any want to be traveler from practically any region in the US. As for me I stick with the old stand by, my truck, affording me the flexibility to camp and have all the necessary gear with me or leave the camping gear at home and select from one of hundreds of hotels within the area, which allows me to use the truck for souvenir collecting. Whatever you chose Williamsburg is very easy to get around considering the mass of visitors to the region; parking is abundant, buses travel regularly between Yorktown located northeast of Williamsburg to Jamestown located south west of Williamsburg. This scenic route running north east and parallel to the York River for the most part offers a wonderful natural setting and simple view of the water sheds small tributaries, while allowing local residents the elbow room to fish and swim leaving the congested Yorktown beach areas for family vacationers.

Our afternoon arrival into Williamsburg afforded Rachel and me a walk around the historic section of town before finding a place to settle down for dinner. On the opposite end of town from the Capitol of colonial VA we chose a small yet elegant restaurant. The Trellis, situated just off the historic section next door to Barns & Noble Books. A unique restaurant in many ways, from the outside it appeared to be another historic structure, but once inside you are treated to contemporary décor which oddly enough worked for this environment, while creating a very comfortable feeling; complete with a very pleasing dinner, live music, wonderful entrees, desserts and wine selection… definitely a restaurant to be enjoyed. I would strongly recommend anything on the menu, but perhaps my favorite was the pork dish; the triple chocolate dessert and a nice glass of Riesling complimented the evening as well. One lone disappointment and added note, avoid the after dinner coffee you could most likely get a better cup of coffee at the local Speedy Mart.

Once outside we ventured into a few shops scattered along the courtyard, although you had your selection of t-shirts as possible souvenir for the kids you also had a vast choice of odd collectibles as well ranging from $3 Christmas ornaments to a thousand dollar chess set finished in colonial pewter figurines. Situated just off the historic district and next door to the Trellis you can also find Barns & Noble Books. As an avid reader I find it almost impossible to pass up a book store even more so considering I was carrying my Fathers Day gift card with me. Typically I tend to make books my souvenir of choice, so what better way to make use of my gift card, beside books take up less space in the suitcase.

The walk back to the truck was exceptional the light was dimming and the crowds began thinning which permitted great photo opportunities, before all the light disappears view the gardens in and around the historic area, each back yard or in a few cases front yards offer floral and vegetable gardens, so take time to break out the camera and soak it all in.

Flowers and architecture not your cup of tea, perhaps a ghost tour within Williamsburg is more to your liking, historic Williamsburg offers numerous tours to suit any pocket and judging by the size of the crowds outside some of the establishments I would venture to guess ghost tours are a pretty popular ingredient to the Williamsburg experience for more then just a few families.

If you like to people watch as I do find a bench and enjoy the crowds while sipping on your favorite beverage of choice it also gives you another vantage point while enjoying the architecture.In many communities throughout the United States in which preservation socities are absent gazing up towards the roof line of each building is essential if one is to capture the original essence of a particular structure, but street level preservation in Williamsburg has kept the original architectural element in tact thus allowing your eye to remain at ground level thanks in part to the John D. Rockefeller Foundation.

The following day and after spending some personal time with Rachel by the pool we decided to make Yorktown our next stop for the weekend. Yorktown, location of Cornwallis's surrender to George Washington and the end of the Revolutionary War offers an insiders look into the final days of the revolution. Beginning in the museum and ending with a walking tour of the encampments, trenches, and historic Yorktown all of which can be explored within an afternoon allowing sufficent time to return to Williamsburg and explore some of the buildings that perhaps you missed the day before. If time permits perhaps you can take in a live performance or dine within the historic community itself, historic Williamsburg offers several old tavern dinning experiences which delight the children and adults with their costumed and never out of character waiters and waitresses.

After many hours on our feet exploring Yorktown Rachel and I decide on something outside the historic genre of dinning experiences and chose the Black Angus, located in the present day consumer retail world, a very nice restaurant with a menu item for everyone’s taste and budget; specializing in steak and seafood among others. Reservations are recommended and blue jeans are acceptable attire.

The next morning after attending church we decided on a small restaurant one block from the hotel…Second Street. By far one of my favorite breakfast restaurants, this restarant offers a warm contemporary feel with a menu that explored traditional foods in an off the wall yet tantalizing to the taste buds sort of way. My breakfast began with a great cup of coffee and eggs benedict and not just any benedict. My eggs benedict included four skillet browned rice and grit squares, topped with a seasoned omelet, on top of this a generous helping of crab cake and then drizzled with a fresh made hollandaise sauce. This meal alone will get me back to Williamsburg before the end of the year. While it would appear that Rachel and I are all about the meals, but in fact we both share a strong interest in architecture and enjoy the walking tours in and around most communities we visit, which also allows us to walk off the meals we enjoy.

Please bear in mind that on this particular trip Rachel and I had only two days to enjoy Williamsburg and in order to truly enjoy everything Williamsburg has to offer one must plan nothing less then a week in the region…we never did get the chance to visit Jamestown! Presently, Williamsburg leads the list of historic destinations; that is until we travel to Charleston SC and Savannah GA later this year and then at that time the list may get shuffled a bit.

I forgot to mention our soul purpose for visiting Williamsburg, although we did take time and walk the historic area of Williamsburg and Yorktown our primary mission was to inform Rachel’s vacationing family of our elopement to Boone NC.(see prior blog)

Mission accomplished!

Blue Ridge Mountains ...Part II

As promised this is the second installment of our recent visit to Boone NC and before you read any further Darris you should know Rachel and I were also married the same weekend…sorry buddy it’s true, but look on the bright side you are not the last to know.

As for the rest of you if you are keeping up with our adventures then you know Rachel and I do love to travel together, Rachel as my co-pilot and navigator and as for me I sometimes think Rachel just brings me along because she knows that I like to drive, but none the less we travel and boy do we travel. In the past four months together we have traveled 14 out of the last 17 weekends, which equates to 56 days and approximately 6,000 miles…wow.

I do know from this recent trip to Boone I must invest in a map that is less then twenty years old, the one Rachel was using failed to list major towns and more then a few state roads which really didn’t present a problem until the return trip home when Rachel informed me that Damascus VA was no longer on the map. Damascus VA for the uninformed is a major layover for those individuals hiking the Appalachian Trail a great spot to re-supply and relax for a day or two before heading out to the their final destination in Georgia or New Hampshire depending on the north south heading.

I digress, as mentioned before Rachel and I had eloped to Boone, although we had planned an October wedding we decided just days before our departure to include marriage in our plans, while including my sister Lena and her husband Mike as witnesses. Pretty simple process really the state of North Carolina only requires identification, $20 fee and we provide witnesses for our weekend ceremony. An ordained minister can perform the ceremony as well as any local Magistrate…we chose the later. Sorry again Darris! Where else do you get a lesson in elopement 101?

I guess if you were to ask Rachel her favorite part of the weekend besides the wedding it most certainly would include the cabin I rented for the weekend. Close to everything, yet snuggled in the mountains away from town; a very special location just over the mountain from where my father was born and distant family still live. The cabin which can be seen in the provided pictures offered more then enough room for two considering its ability to accommodate eight people comfortably with full size beds in every room and two very large bathrooms. The only thing this cabin did not provide was food, aside from this we had everything we needed which enabled Rachel and me to prepare very nice dinner for the four of us later that evening.

http://fallcreekvacationrentals.com/

The Friday evening before the wedding Rachel and I arrived early in order for me to show Rachel around the area and to stop by the courthouse to get our marriage license information in order. Soon after departing the courthouse we found ourselves exploring RT 321 south of Blowing Rock passing along the way such must see places like Tweetsie Railroad which offers live interactive comedic train robbery while your train clambers its way over hill and dell; back at the bottom of the mountain musical theatrical productions are featured on the hour in the now famous Tweetsie Saloon.

As we also clambered our way up the mountain we happened across a unique restaurant perched at the edge of the canyon…appropriately named Canyons. The evening included live local entertainment, fresh seafood and customer friendly service second to none, I say this because the waiter and kitchen staff went over and beyond in order to make sure Rachel could eat something that did not include onions…nasty reaction when she eats onions. The view of the canyon like the customer service is second to none and was visible from most any seat in the house with outside dinning for even the most timid of height seekers.

Backtracking off the mountain make sure and swing through the small community of Blowing Rock, take in the local fare and atmosphere. Walk the streets explore the shops and galleries and then move over to the park just across the street, purchase an ice cream cone, acquire a park bench then sit back and people watch, you will be glad you did.

The day of the wedding began rather much in a lull things were quiet we had scoped out the floral shop the night before. Good thing we did it had taken us twenty minutes and much back tracking in order to find this little tiny whole in the wall. Before leaving Morgantown I taken time to order Rachel a bouquet of roses on-line, using the sight most advertised and with the highest rated comments I called and placed an order. Obviously the company expends a lot of money on their on line presence and not so much on the store itself, as a matter of fact had Rachel not seen the tattered fabric awning attached to a beat up old warehouse we would still be looking for the florist. However, with that being said the flowers were beautiful and fresh, the thought of walking in there the next morning and seeing a bunch of weeds presented to me on our wedding day was weighting heavy on my mind the entire evening…I guess looks can be deceiving.

Did I fail to mention I was late for my own wedding, yep forgot the ring back at the cabin. We were just driving around killing time and low and behold my co-pilot started going through her trusty checklist and yes the ring was missing. I franticly called my sister and informed her we would be little tardy in picking them up. What I thought would be 10 minute drive back to the cabin quickly turned to 15 and then 20 and then 30 minutes passed, which placed us 5 minutes late in arriving to the courthouse.

After the very simple ceremony before the Magistrate the four of us retired to the Crying Onion a restaurant famous for its humus and ice cold tea…great place just around the corner from the courthouse.

Later that evening as previously mention Rachel and I prepared dinner for the four of us, but not before stopping and picking up a few things from Earth Fare a mostly organic food store, offering great organic coffees, fruits, pasta and bison. I only wish Morgantown or even Charleston West Virginia had such a store, great place to shop if you are really into watching what you put in your body. My daughter Courtney turned me onto the whole health food store concept…very glad she did.

Back in Morgantown Sunday evening we began to plan our next trip… destination Williamsburg VA. Meeting up with the new in-laws I guess we need to tell them we’re married sometime. Wish us luck!

Boone NC picture Show.

Blue Ridge Mountains….Simply Beautiful, Part I

This summer, take time out and enjoy the mountains, any mountains will do, but I would strongly suggest a secluded section of the Blue Ridge Mountains located in western North Carolina…more specifically Boone, North Carolina. Located just minutes off the Blue Ridge Parkway and nestled at the base of Grandfathers Mountain; Boone NC affords travelers both scenic beauty and hospitality while allowing and an easy commute to numerous travel destinations throughout western North Carolina.

Although one can travel with relative ease to locations like Asheville NC home of the Biltmore Estate or Hickory NC home to numerous furniture manufactures while making Boone an ideal “base camp” so to speak, however, for me it is Boone NC itself that has drawn me to the region since my youth. As is the case with most Appalachian descendents a periodic emersion into ones roots is essential to maintain a connection with the “hills” and being that Boone was the birth place of my father it seems travel to the region was an obvious no-brainer. On more then one ocassion I can recall my travels to Boone in my early years with me always sandwiched between Mom and Dad on the front seat while my five siblings consumed the back seat of the old Chrysler sound a sleep as Dad navigated various narrow back roads from Morgantown WV to Boone prior to the development of I-79… all in an attempt to find the shortest and ultimately the quickest route home.

Boone NC named after that famous frontiersman Daniel Boone served as home and base camp too many excursions of the famed frontiersman into what was then unexplored regions of Tennessee, Kentucky and NC. The region in and around Boone has assuredly changed since Daniel trekked these mountains, but rest assured the mountains have remained the same while offering up the needed amenities of modern day life in a cohabitation between man and nature. Today Boone offers both the Mayberry downtown atmosphere and minutes away the growth that is needed to maintain a small town economy, wedged between the two distinct sections of town as if bridging the present with the past is Appalachian State University home of the Mountaineers.

Uniquely the campus has liberal arts feel while maintaining a dynamic presence in the bible belt foothills, as with most campuses it tends to dictate the retail economy in and around the area and Boone is no exception; offering up trendy juice bars, health food stores and restaurants all within walking distance of campus. Downtown is an exceptional experience beckoning the traveler to explore the small and inviting antique stores, coffee shops, book stores and various restaurants exclusive to Boone. The Mast General Store in itself affords a trip back in time completing the whole Mayberry experience with squeaky wooden floors, stacks of durable apparel and hard to find candies and sundries. While the aging hippy and Andy Griffith atmosphere may not appeal to everyone, just minutes away one can have your present day culinary and shopping needs met within a variety of chain restaurants and retail clothing stores.

Regardless of your shopping needs and culinary desires it is the Blue Ridge Mountains that one must experience just as Daniel and my predecessors have done for decades. Just north of Boone on RT 194 lies the community of Meat Camp an unincorporated community that harkens back to the early 1900’s, a picturesque vicinity complete with cool streams, rolling hillsides abundant with young tree farms and an age old grist meal which up until just recently still afforded farmers the ability to have local field grains ground and bagged for easier storage.

Minutes in the opposite direction located on RT 321 lies the entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway, catching the parkway here allows one to travel either north into Virginia or further south into North Carolina, traveling through such areas as Linville Falls and the Cherokee reservation. Along the way travelers enjoy some of very enticing scenic wonders, a few not to be overlooked include Linville Falls, Blue Ridge Viaduct and the film location for the movie Last of the Mohicans; not to mention the unobstructed view of the mountains. The view from the Parkway is to be enjoyed at subdued pace, take time to stop at scenic overlooks and experience the vista and don’t forget the camera. You will be surprised how often you find yourself saving “hey honey, quick bring the camera.” Closer to Boone and still on the Parkway one can experience the Moses Cone Estate and craft store…bring your credit card because you will certainly find something that your home can not do without.

Unbeknownst to many the Parkway has become a Mecca of sorts for motorcycle enthusiast from across the country offering and easy and also safe ride with very few intersecting junctions, which as we know can be problem for motorcyclist who have to share the road with their larger cousin the car. It is not uncommon to see vacationing motorcyclist tucked well off the side of the road in a grassy meadow; blanket spread, either enjoying a nap or a box lunch under a tree. When you stop and think, aside from hiking parallel to the Parkway traveling by motorcycle is as close to experiencing the mountains in the same manner as our frontiersman did from horseback.

Although you may be traveling up the Parkway into the mountains you are actually traveling south so take the time and make the return trip back to Boone via Rt.105 thus affording you the experience of the Grandfathers Mountain. Before leaving the mountain I would strongly suggest allowing the children to get out and stretch their legs while exploring the natural animal reserve and swinging bridge, documented as the highest swinging bridge east of the Mississippi River.

During the return trip off the mountain take time and experience the roadside stands most are operated today as they were by generations of families before them and offer a variety of farm fresh fare; while you have the car pulled to the side of the road selecting your various jams and jellies remember to look up. I can remember years ago a professor telling me if you want to get a feel for a piece of architecture before it was changed “look up” as is the case with Grandfathers Mountain the view of the mountain from the south west is by far the best means to capture the this colossal giant in picture.

With your daytime filled with small road trips and excursions to places like Mystery Mountain and Tweetsie Railroad and by the way both are excellent stops for children of all ages, you may be asking at this point what does Boone have to offer for evening adventure? In Part II of Blue Ridge Mountains…Simply Beautiful I will conclude my stay in Boone and offer suggestions for evening dining, accommodation, and additional outdoor adventures.

See Photo Gallery Below.

What is a Purple Fiddle?

Recently I sold my home and during one of the many weekends spent packing Rachel and I decided to take break from this very labor intensive task and just get away for a few hours…destination the Purple Fiddle. Located in beautiful Thomas West Virginia, a quick yet scenic trip just an hour and half drive over the mountain from Morgantown.

The trip east across West Virginia mountains and south through Maryland countryside are at their best this time of year offering up abundant foliage and mild weather as well, although the late night return offered a thick blanket of fog thus creating a return trip that lasted well over two hours. None the less the trip up the mountain via I-68 east and south on RT 42 from Friendsville was pleasing to the eye and once we connected with RT 219 south the ride opened up to pasture vistas second to none.

The trip like they say can be the best part of any destination travel, offering the typical road side amenities, which included some unique offerings unseen in most of the country, but are taken for granted by locals in the area; such is the case with the Smallest Church east of the Mississippi, power generating wind mills which loom over the hilltops like mouments to greek gods and the headwaters of the Potomac which at this elevation is only a small spring.

Just minutes from the Potomac headwaters you find the small community of Thomas WV home of the Purple Fiddle our intended destination. This tiny little community tucked away in a remote region of Tucker County WV offers just one road in and one road out of town …literally. Entering the tiny hamlet from the north you arrive on Main Street on what appears to be very wide thoroughfare, of course this wide country lane can be deceptive most of which is shared parking limited to business’s within Thomas. Exiting town, if traveling north you leave town on a second street located above the first, sandwiched between the upper and lower streets lies the community of Thomas West Virginia.

As any traveler will certainly notice upon arriving in Thomas is its unique architecture along its thoroughfare harking back to its boom years when timber and coal where the principle employment in the area with their “company store look” applied to most shops and business’s, except for the Purple Fiddle. It is not hard to distinguish which building houses the Purple Fiddle mounted over the portico entering the establishment hangs a six foot tall purple fiddle!

Along with the special marker perched precariously above the door what one soon realizes when entering the Purple Fiddle is that you are readying yourself for a very special experience, if not a one of a kind experience and part of that experience includes the menu and furnishings. The restaurant offers up a very unusual yet inviting atmosphere with its miss matched tables and chairs and collection of “stuff”; which includes the likes of environmental newspaper resting on the knee wall, to the quilts which make up the back drop for the live performances, while church pews await those late arriving individuals who have simply stopped by to enjoy the live bluegrass performances which is offered up thrice weekly.

While you wait for the talent to take the stage around 9:00 find a table if you can… seating is limited to around 75 guests and it pays to find a table as early as 7:00 and just sit back and try something from the menu. Trust us you will not be disappointed. Rachel and I always try and order something different then the other allowing each to share in the others menu selection. This particular evening I had the pork gyro and Rachel had the coleslaw, organic rice and beef barbeque wrap, both were excellent and the portions were generous. As for beverages Rachel sampled a simple Merlot and I tried a very nice organic beer from Germany,Pinccus Honey Wheat, but be ready it only comes in an 18 oz bottle and two of these hardy beers will have you looking for a designated driver. All totaled we spent less the $25.00 which included the tip.

While the kitchen and menu are managed by one of two proprietors the other handles booking talent several months in advance of their performance. Handled is a word I use loosely only because most acts desire time on the stage at the Purple Fiddle, the Fiddle has gained US and UK notoriety since is humble start with more then a few bluegrass acts adding the Fiddle to their list of must perform places.

The entertainment matched the menu, earthy, organic and off the beaten path. While the music was performed by a New York based band the the sound was pure appalachian. Delayed by fog and the tardiness of the sound operator the band started a little late, however late is ok considering the caliber of the talent. A complete list of future performances can be found by visiting http://purplefiddle.com/mmschedule.html Please note that all though you are not charged a cover charge when you enter, someone will certainly stop by your table to collect $7.00 soon after the bands starts, this paltry sum is very much a bargain considering the quality of the talent. At first I thought the idea of collecting the fee after the band began to play a little odd, but actually this is made very good business. One family who had just stopped by for dinner was pretty much locked into seeing the entire show once their three year old began tapping her foot in perfect rhythm with the band.

If you could define the audience this evening it would be very much like the restaurant itself... very ecclectic from the girls in the corner who each had their own bottle of wine, to the old timer who just seemed to "hang out", to the young couple with children; strangely enough all seemed to fit the character of the establishment.

Both, Rachel and I would strongly suggest anyone planning a trip to Thomas arrange a little extra time to travel around the area. The town itself offers many unique shops while the region also offers Blackwater Falls just minutes away, as well as Canaan Valley. If shopping is really a must then consider Mountainmade (yes I did spell the business name correctly), a very nice outlet located in former grade school which showcases West Virginia made crafts and goods; which includes fresh honey, WV wines and pottery to name but a few things to entice the wallet.

As mentioned earlier the fog became an issue on our return trip, but we dealt with it and were in no hurry to get home. Although an option would have been to stay the night in the B&B next door to the Purple Fiddle,The Fiddlers Roost, we thought better and decided not to stay the night. Maybe next time we will check out the The Roost on our return visit, I will admitt the little place did remind me of a little hotel just outside Mt. Storm WV, I stumbled across it one late April night…but that’s a story for another day.


Robert & Rachel